SDE Full Party!

15 07 2014

Sorry for not posting anything these last few months. I have definitely been painting, but haven’t found time to blog. I finally finished all of the heroes from the base SDE set! I just finished the dwarf and paladin

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The whole team assembled! I think they look pretty good together as a team. Now to smash some kobolds! (photo taken with my friend’s traveling light box)


Some work in progress shots from the paladin. Again, I used all flat paints to do the “non-metalic metal”.

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I’ll admit the shield is a little choppy…

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probably 80% done

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Finals right to left: paladin, dwarf, and Captain R.

Captain R was really fun to paint as the sculpt is very flavorful. However the model is not perfect; there are some annoying mold lines/ mismatched mold lines along the hilt of the sword, but overall a good cast. One complaint I have is that the base on the captain is different from the starter set and unfortunately he comes glued to it… -_- The problem is that base on captain R has much less detail. There are fewer grooves and cracks that made the original bases look like a stone floor.

One huge positive, Captain R, a “dark hero”, is also a lot of fun to play. He acts as a mini-boss and his special ability allows him to attach equipment from the treasure and loot decks. Pretty sweet for a minion of the console!



Dungeon Crawling

12 04 2013

With the spring semester winding down, and most of my class projects complete I have much more time to paint. My house is also a huge mess, so I don’t have much else to do. Because the SDE models are so small it’s pretty easy to knock these out quickly. They look better in real life. I’m not the best photographer.

Here are some WIP of 3 Super Dungeon Explore (SDE) Heroines, the “Glimmerdusk Ranger”, “Hexcast Sorceress”, and “Riftling Rogue”.

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I was really trying to practice painting “anime eyes”. I think they came out pretty good.

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The eyes are pretty simple if you know where to highlight and where to put the white dot for the reflection. I don’t know that much about anime eyes, so I used a google search for some images. I pretty much copied one of these eyes found here

This was probably one of the most fun mini’s I’ve painted in a long time. There is just so much detail (albeit less than there should have been because some of the molding didn’t come out right). I’m still working on my NMM (non-metalic metal). I think I’m getting much better at it!

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The cape was really fun to paint. I tried to shade and highlight it naturally, but on the yellow I added some extra high contrast, which looks kinda like it’s gold.

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probably one of the most difficult to paint because of the pose. The crouching position makes it hard for my paint brush to reach all the areas.

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Now let’s dungeon dive for some treasure!

Angry Bear WIP

5 04 2013

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This is the card for the “Angry Bear” hero that comes with the game. I wanted to paint him close to the art, but with a little mix of polar bear (the mouth is black).

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So first off I sprayed him with white primer.

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Next I gave him a base coat of Citadel “snakebite leather”. You may be wondering why I painted him brown if he’s going to be white. Well, he’d look pretty one dimensional if he was entirely white. It wouldn’t give me the ability to add shadows or highlights. Plus, if you look carefully at a polar bear you’ll see that they aren’t pure white.

The coat of the bear is a mix of white with Citadel paint “bleached bone”

I did the base coat of the chains with Vallejo “parasite brown” (what colorful names… har har har!)

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My attempt at “non-metalic metal”, using only flat paints to depict the shadows and highlights real metal has. You’ll notice that the left manacle is flat yellow, while the right one looks “shiny”. I have to say that this process has been very frustrating. I don’t have very good pictures of the stages because I had to redo it so many times. I’m still not entirely satisfied with it, but I think I just need more practice.

To make the gradients I used (from dark to light) Vallejo “charred brown”, Citadel “snakebite leather”, 50/50 mix snakebite and Vallejo “scrofulous brown”, scrofulous brown, 50/50 mix scrofulous and Vallejo “sun yellow”, sun yellow, 50/50 mix sun yellow and white, and final highlights with plain white.

The trick to it is getting a really smooth transition in your gradient. mixing this many paints together can be a bother. I wish I had more skill using a wet palate. Oh well!

More pictures to come!

Exploring that dungeon!

13 03 2013

I have obviously be remiss in keeping my new years resolution… Not that I haven’t been doing anything, but I just haven’t posted it yet. However, I haven’t even started painting my dungeon explore set. with the craziness of my schedule this year, and some family events I haven’t had much time to devote to modeling.


(pic of my dungeon explore set)

The models are really cool, but there are some molding and fit issues. When they manufacture these figures, most of the time it’s a mold that is filled with plastic. Where the two halves of the mold meet sometimes excess plastic leaks out. We call this flashing. There is flashing on pretty much every figure, which is fine but that means there is a lot of cleaning to do.

The second hurdle is the fit. Some of the pieces don’t fit together that great and this leaves an ugly gap. Some of the gaps are less noticeable, but some are really awkward.

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(Dude, looks like you took an axe to the neck! It’s your own fault for not wearing any armor or anything to protect himself.)

This poor guy has a huge gap right on his neck. I used some green stuff to fill the gap.

There are gaps for me to fill on most of the models.

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But I have filled most of the hero figures, and sprayed them with paint primer. Painting to commence soon!

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Happy New Year

1 01 2013

Happy New Year everyone! As one of my resolutions I will be trying to post more often on this site.

For Christmas I got a copy of Super Dungeon Explore from my girlfriend.

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It’s a board game with a lot of quality figures. I think of it as a self-contained version of D&D, but less rules and cuter figures.

It’s themed as a 8/ 16 bit console action-adventure RPG. 5 heroes are pitted against the game “console”. The console spawns and controls the monsters, and the “players” each have a character with different powers.

I played a practice run of the game with my brother. It is pretty fun. we played with empty bases because I didn’t put together the figures yet. I can’t wait to put together all of the figures, but there are some fit issues with the molding and there is a lot of flashing to clean off. And there are a lot of figures, so it may take me a while to finish painting them.


13 07 2012

I’ve been looking for a mini to serve as my character in D&D. After looking a while at REAPER mini’s I found this guy, Kjell Bloodbear. I like that he’s well proportioned, he doesn’t look like a cartoon character, and most important is his abs of steel (pewter). I like his fierce feral look, and I have a soft spot for barbarians. my first D2 character was a fluffy cuddly barbarian.


Before I start painting I try to get some inspiration first. I’m not that creative and I don’t have a very colorful imagination. I have a lot of artists that I aspire to be like. unfortunately none of them painted this particular model. However, I really liked what this guy did:

and whoever this guy is he’s pretty good:

One thing I wanted was to change the weapons on the model. Iunno, but the cleavers seem kinda small and wimpy. I want a friggin’ huge axe to smash things. However, the model doesn’t come with any extra parts, and the cleavers are molded on his hands. This is a problem. So I bought some weapons from reaper, who not so coincidentally sell weapon packs that are the correct scale for their models (not always the case tho). While Kjell is a barbarian with a steel (pewter) grip, very tiny knobby handles don’t adhere very well, even with super glue, to stumpy pewter hands. In other words, it’s pretty tough to get metal weapons to stay on metal models. (I wish I could weld) There’s not a lot of surface area for super glue to stick the things together and hands and weapons by nature happen to stick out of the model, so they’re more prone to bump things (especially true for gaming modeles).


The technique is called “pinning”: drill holes into both pieces and put a metal rod in. You need a couple of things; a drill called a pin vise, clippers and files, paper clips and super glue. I’ve found that paper clips on the small scale, a rod less than a cm, is very strong and does a good job of holding things together. Most of the work was taking off the cleavers because they were molded as part of the model. So it was joined in some places to his cloak. I had to do a lot of filing to make the cape smooth afterwards.


Ah ha, now then, much better!